And then there’s that arresting foie gras, a torchon of which is frozen so it can be shaved into a loosely packed snowball. This preserves the liver’s creaminess while tempering its unctuousness, and it’s rounded out with a brittle of cashews or pine nuts, a gelée of riesling or Sauternes, and litchi or pickled grapes.
— I’m drooling. I love the Bruni. And he loves the Ko. Unctuousness? Genius.